3 a.m. starts usually mean one of two things to me; we're off on holiday and slept approx. zero hours or I'm traveling the length of the country for a worthy event. This time it was the latter, as a few weeks back I was invited for a tour around the Loake Shoemakers factory in Kettering, Northamptonshire. The British shoemaker has been producing handmade shoes on our isles for over 130 years, and are arguably one of the most recognised in their field.
My earliest memory of Loake involved my Grandad; a working-class cockney born in the 1930s. He wore Loake shoes all his life. Back then people saved for quality and something which could be repaired easily. I'd guess he had the same pair of smart shoes for 40 years. I remember sitting by his feet, playing with my toys cars (my Grandad was a footballer-turned car factory manager), he'd always wear black Oxford shoes on without fail. We called them his "Aladdin" shoes, as he'd worn them so much the toes had curled up.
Along with a couple of other menswear writers I headed off into the heart of the factory - a building which was alive with buzzing machinery, decades of stories and a passion for the art of shoemaking.
As we were shown around each working department by Managing Director, Andrew Loake, it quickly became apparent that the Loake factory was like no other I'd visited in the past. This was a impressively slick operation, with each station ran like clockwork. The actual process which goes into creating a handmade Loake shoe was baffling, and takes skills which can only be attained if you truly become a student of the profession.
It takes 200+ operations (factory-speak for an individual process) for each pair of Loake shoes to be considered complete and ready to be shipped. We saw a pair of brogues which had been stopped at 70 operations; they could have called it a day at that, as it was perfectly formed. But the Kettering-based shoemakers have learned a thing or two since first opening in 1880, having fine-tuned their process into creating something which is unmistakably Loake.
The subject of British manufacturing and outsourcing products would inevitably be mentioned, a part of the business which a lot of consumers feel frustrated + let down about. Claim from brands to be "Made in England", only to find out it's a part of their "branding", but actually being produced in South Asia. Loake admit to outsourcing certain styles for a simple reason - if Italians are renowned for producing the best quality driving moccasins, then they will work with that factory to produce the perfect Loake driving shoe, and so forth. Northamptonshire is synonymous with more traditional styles like the Country Brogue, Oxford and Derby, so that is where they will be produced. Each pair is stamped with its true country of origin, without fail. Transparency is what consumers deserve.
It's a subject which MD Andrew Loake could talk about at length - a truly fascinating man, with shoemaking in his blood. That's a passion you can't mimic. I could have listened to him talk for hours, but time was short and we all dashed to our respective offices. My 5.5 hours train journey home wasn't something I was especially looking forward to, but it was soon cleared from my mind and replaced with the thoughts of wearing a pair of Made in England shoes to our wedding, knowing exactly who has made them.
To find out more about Loake visit here. Thank you for reading - Mat.
It's not everyday you get to see inside the factory and speak directly about the processes, very cool
ReplyDeleteThis looks incredible!
ReplyDeleteI doff my hat to you Mat! This is an outstanding post that resonates with Hiro and for many reasons. I liked learning about your grandfather (what a fascinating character!) and I enjoyed your photos very much.
ReplyDeleteWe respect Loake's transparency in their labeling that is real integrity. And I can completely understand the need to outsource to another country for the purposes of finding the right expertise. Let's face it, skilled craftsmen are hard to find these days!
Thank you for sharing this wonderful post. BTW I happened across a branch of Loake in Tokyo in the most crazy place. Downtown in an area known mainly for odd goings on and sportswear. Curiouser ans curiouser no?
Nobody has problems with outsourcing to Italy. Outsourcing to India is a different matter.
ReplyDeleteI like a honest brand. Looks like a lovely visit despite the long train journey, beautiful pictures and shoes
ReplyDeleteKatrina Sophia Blog
amizing pic
ReplyDeletegreat to see the interiors of a shoes maker
Mi blog by Amo
Wow! Must have been such an amazing experience - I've always wanted to visit a shoe factory! Lucky! :)
ReplyDeleteTatyana
Secret little Stars
www.secretlittlestars.com
Wow, so cool! You're lucky you got to see the process, I think people take for granted what really goes into making quality products! Thanks for sharing, Mat!
ReplyDeleteThis is a neat experience! It's interesting to see how the things we use daily are made. Not something we would probably give thought to otherwise.
ReplyDeleteI bought a pair of high quality shoes the other day that have really nice stitch work. I'll have to send you a pic!
This looks so cool! I love these posts of yours!
ReplyDeleteThis is a wonderful post, I love the behind the scenes insight; it is amazing to see how many different processes go into making a pair of their shoes. That's so cool that you have those memories of your Grandad too, I think there's a lot that can be said for saving and spending out on a quality product with good workmanship. It makes me cringe at the thought of the amount of pairs of £8 shoes I've worn for a few weeks until they literally fell apart. Nowadays I rarely buy non-leather shoes if I'm buying work shoes as I want to know they are a quality shoe that will be comfortable and well-made. Thanks for a great post! :)
ReplyDeleteWow. I really appreciate seeing the behind the scenes - operations and process - that goes into making a product. The shoes are beauties!
ReplyDeleteI love posts like this. The photos are great and it's refreshing to see a company that stays true to its identity while still keeping up with globalization while being upfront about it.
ReplyDeleteWow! This is awesome. I've always dreamed about being a shoe maker but goodness knows, how intricate and lengthy the process is. Loved the process shots, I've never visited a shoe factory but
ReplyDeleteI'd love to at some point!
This was such an interesting post, I love getting a good sneak peek! Quality over quantity is definitely the way to go, especially with shoes!
ReplyDeleteMaria xxx
It makes them much more special having seen the process used to make them, so amazing that you get to wear a pair to your wedding too.
ReplyDeleteI just showed this post to my dad. He's always dreamed about picking up the hobby of shoemaking. He loved these photos!
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