30 Sept 2013

Selvedge Denim - What's It All About?

selvedge denim, raw selvedge blue jeans, blue highway your jeans, blue bandana back pocket, vintage worn brown boots and denim
After a number of conversations on Twitter and forums I have decided to pick up the subject of selvage denim, the ins-and-outs and the best/recommended ways to look after your jeans. So I asked expert in the field Doug Ellison, one of the Directors at well renowned North East denim specialist Union Clothing. Here is the gist of what he had to say on the matter;

Buckets & Spades - What is Selvedge Denim?

Doug Ellison - Ok so SELVAGE DENIM is defined by the narrow white woven edge on vintage style denim, this was originally produced on 29-inch looms and went on to 58-62 inch looms to improve efficiency. Individual denim producers would often use a coloured line of thread to identify their product, Levi and Nudie use red, Lee use green, Wrangler use gold and Japanese denim brand EDWIN now using Rainbow selvage.

selvedge denim, raw selvedge blue jeans, premium japanese denim

B&S – So how is it made, are their different techniques?

DE - Different techniques can be used to make Selvage Denim, each technique creates different characteristics in the denim. LEFT HAND TWILL was traditionally used by LEE and offered a softer handle. OPEN ENDED DENIM is generally cheaper to produce although it is bulkier, coarser, and absorbs more dye. RIGHT HAND TWILL produces a diagonal which rises from left to right. Most Levi’s jeans are right hand twill. RING SPUN DENIM was traditionally used into the late 1970s but was replaced by cheaper open end yarns, generally used to acquire a vintage look this denim is harder wearing than open end. RING RING DENIM uses ring spun yarn for both the warp and weft and generally has a lower cost.

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B&S - Are there any special ways to care for your Selvage Denim, what do you recommend?

DE - There are a few pointers we at Union Clothing give to our customers to make sure they get the best out of their investment. First, good quality Selvage is not the cheapest but will reward you with years of wear whilst giving you a pair of jeans that you have lived with through every scuff and wear mark which tells a story about you and your lifestyle. Second to get the best out of your SELVAGE JEANS requires some dedication and will power not to succumb to the temptation to wash them to early, if you imagine your jeans to be a tree and you need to remove the bark to get at the grain of the wood below that is in effect what you are doing with a pair of SELVAGE JEANS.

At Union we like to practise what we preach, especially when it comes to selvage denim. Here is an example of Geoff’s selvage denims before he started wearing them, and after the first wash 18 months later;

1 / 2 / 3 / 4

B&S - Cheers fellas, that's cleared a few things up then. Until next time.

If you are looking for some quality selvage jeans then why not have a look Union Clothing's new online store here, or pop into our stores in Newcastle and say hello. Union Clothing, 12 High Bridge, Newcastle, NE1 1EW.


Negative Space Animals by George Bokhua

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negative space animal masterclass george bokhua, simple animal illustrations, how to use negative space
negative space animal masterclass george bokhua, simple animal illustrations, how to use negative space
negative space animal masterclass george bokhua, simple animal illustrations, how to use negative space
negative space animal masterclass george bokhua, simple animal illustrations, how to use negative space
negative space animal masterclass george bokhua, simple animal illustrations, how to use negative space

Really effective and clever use of space by George Bokhua for his Negative Space Animals series. It's a simple concept that makes you look at the subject from a slight different perspective, allowing you to fill in the rest of the gaps with your own imagination. A great way to start a new week, don't you think?

To see more of George Bokhua's work click here.

28 Sept 2013

Nike Flyknit Lunar 1+

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nike flyknit lunar 1+ squadron blue crimson white, nike flyknit wear with, mens nike flyknit lunar, dockers khaki chinos, beige socks, edwin college sweatshirt black, timex weekender
navy coach jacket, menswear blogger, mens street style, edwin college sweatshirt black, asos jacket, wear sweatshirt with
navy coach jacket, menswear blogger, mens street style, edwin college sweatshirt black, asos jacket, wear sweatshirt with
Wearing - ASOS Jacket, Edwin Sweatshirt c/o Urban Outfitters, H&M T-shirt, Dockers Chinos, Nike Flyknit Lunar 1+ c/o JD Sports, Topman Socks.


My own style has been leaning more and more towards Sportswear for a good while now. I put this down to me actually trying to keep fit and exercise on a regular basis and also heavily influenced by an  increasing interest in sports technology and innovations. Nike is an extremely aspiration company for me, their constant push and drive to help people succeed, without getting to blogged down with heritage is something which I am very much on board with. For further reading check out Susie and Steve's post about their recent trip to the Nike HQ in Oregon, what a dream that would be!

I was very kindly send these pair of Nike Flyknit Lunar 1+ by JD Sports and I've been putting them through their paces for the past week. Although I'm wearing them in a more everyday way here I've taken them out for a proper spin and will carry on doing so over the next few months. After a couple of minutes of light jogging around the local park I noticed that their supportive quality was leagues ahead of their little brother, the Nike Free Run (which I have been running in for 2 years), so I'm inclined to say these would be more suited for run longer distances. I wouldn't say either of them are comfier, but  due to the Flyknit's unique construction and technology they're super lightweight, structured and fit like a glove. 

Weekend Bucket List

Man comes home to find his house has been re-plumbed with beer, imagine that?
Some really good examples of Dublin Street Style.
Hollie and I recently visited Thorpe Park.
Nike Free Hyperfeel: Inside the Design.
An action figure that's kind of a big deal.

Enjoy your weekend folks, I'm off to another Classic Car/Hotrod show. Any plans?


27 Sept 2013

Ayame @ Present


Where would we be without socks? We would have wet, cold feet for a start but I feel a damn sight better off knowing that I can pull on a decent pair of colourful socks whenever I need to.

Japanese brand Ayame do some of the best looking ones around and their Sock Monkeys are the bomb.

Available at Present.

26 Sept 2013

RAINS DK

Rains DK, rains waterproof outerwear, yellow raincoat, waterproof jackets
Rains DK, rains waterproof outerwear, yellow raincoat, waterproof jackets
Rains DK, rains waterproof outerwear, yellow raincoat, waterproof jackets
Rains DK, rains waterproof outerwear, navy raincoat, waterproof jackets

A conversation on Twitter and on the forum I'm a member of about decent waterproof/resistant outerwear threw up a few names; Elka, Stutterheim, Marmot, The North Face and finally RAINS. Creating their first rain jacket in 2011, RAINS are relative newcomers to the outerwear party. Full waterproof jackets are quite a rarity on the market, in terms of the style and price Danish brand are aiming at. There's a few rubbery competitors out there, but sometimes you don't need to break the bank to get something which is the real deal. 

The current RAINS collection features outerwear in mid (RRP £70) and long length, ponchos and a belted curved style, available in navy, khaki, orange and yellow. Each piece is made from a durable PU/Poly mix, making them 100% waterproof, coping with the heaviest of downpours. Their accessories range has been extended this season, carrying a range of backpacks and duffle bags and sleeves; the MSN Backpack seems like the perfect answer to my constant soaking commute around town. 

Current UK stockists include newly opened The Cloth Stop, Manchester and atoo are carrying some limited edition pieces.

For more details on RAINS visit here.

Shona Heath for J.Crew Regent Street, London

   

Set designer Shona Heath was recently commissioned to create a unique temporary store front for the lead up to the launch of J.Crew's London store on Regent Street. I for one am really looking forward to them finally opening their doors in London this November, it's a store I enjoy visiting when I'm in America and their customer service is top notch. Let's hope they bring some of that enthusiasm over with them. However, I do wonder what they'll do with the taxis once the store is open?

Alexander & James Giveaway Update - Thank you to everyone who entered the Whiskey + Gin Giveaway,  the winner is....Sarah Waldron! Look out for more giveaways on Buckets & Spades in October.

25 Sept 2013

White Knuckles at Thorpe Park

To truly understand the map you have to get into it. Wearing - Armor-Lux t-shirt, Levi's, Nike Powerlines.

The guy with the frogs on his head.


This is what Hollie looks like after five roller coaster, she loves it! Wearing - H&M Dress + Cycling Shorts, Nike Free Run

On what ended up being one of the hottest days of the year, Hollie and I set off at 7am on the mammoth drive down to Thorpe Park in Surrey. We'd been planning this trip for ages, both of us love the thrill of being hurtled around in all sorts of crazy directions at 60mph, so we'd been counting down the days since early summer.

But there was one major flaw, we hadn't realised we'd booked our tickets on one of the busiest Bank Holidays of the year. Luckily for us we had the pleasure of upgrading our regular tickets for the exclusive "fast-track" tickets, which cut each queue down to about 10 minutes! To queue for an hour for each ride after a 6-hour drive to the park would have been a major blow, but that wasn't the case as we managed to ride five of the most extreme roller coasters I've ever been on!

We hadn't expected Thorpe Park's rides to be so epic, expecting them not to come close to some of the extreme ones we've been on in America, but we were proven wrong in spectacular fashion. From the quite frankly ridiculous 10 loop-the-loops of Colossus and 100ft vertical incline of the SAW to being launched to 80mph in under two seconds with Stealth, this place is flipping crazy! 

A big thank you to Thorpe Park for providing us with fast-track tickets and looking after us for the day. If you're into a bit of the old white knuckle extreme roller coasters I definitely recommend visiting, just look at Hollie's face above to remind you how much fun you could be having! Have you guys been to Thorpe Park or any other theme parks, where do you recommend?

24 Sept 2013

Universal Works x John Smedley Knitwear

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universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley henley silver, john smedley knitwear
universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley crew knit bunny, john smedley knitwear
universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley crew knit bunny, john smedley knitwear
universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley crew knit indigo, john smedley knitwear
universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley crew knit indigo, john smedley knitwear
universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley cardigan indigo grey, john smedley knitwear
universal works x john smedley, universal works x john smedley cardigan indigo grey, john smedley knitwear
Universal Works x John Smedley knitwear collection.

This Autumn knitwear connoisseurs John Smedley have hooked up with Universal Works to produce a small 8-piece collection, taking inspiration from JS's extensive archive. Both JS + UW are based in The Midlands, UK and their first collection brings together both company's love and passion for craft, quality and meticulous detail. Each garment shows off the vision of Universal Works's founder David Keyte, as well as the knowledge and history of the John Smedley brand.

The collection features henleys, crew necks and cardigans, each style available in two colour options. I've been getting into henleys of late, they're easy to stick over a white t-shirt or under a shirt for an extra bit of warmth (especially handy for cyclists). They're a practical item but UW have turned a once-undergarment into a modern piece of knitwear. Both the henley and crew neck feature a slightly extended back hem and striped cuffs, which nicely merges traditional sportswear and knitwear together. It's all pretty detailed stuff and as you would imagine each piece is made from top notch merino wool, sourced from New Zealand and constructed in Derbyshire.

Below is a video which documents the collection's design and construction process. The Universal Works x John Smedley collection is available here.

   

23 Sept 2013

Design Your Own Superhero

the hulk toy, the hulk marvel pop bobblehead, now tv superheros
the hulk toy, the hulk marvel pop bobblehead, now tv superheros
the hulk toy, the hulk marvel pop bobblehead, now tv superheros
 The Hulk Marvel Bobblehead

An email popped up this week saying, "do you fancy designing your own superhero?". A no-brainer for me really, so where do I signed up? To promote the launch of NOW TV's Superhero campaign, they're doing just that. The first 500 people to submit their characters get a month's free movie subscription and a t-shirt with their own superhero on it. Then if you're lucky enough to be voted in the top 3 design (chosen by the public) you will have your superhero turned into a proper animation! Sweet deal indeed.

Just a quick word about our newest Blog Sponsors - Pavillion Clothing is an independent men's and womenswear stored based in Cardiff, Wales. This season they're stocking some cracking brands instore and online, you're likely to find Barbour, Edwin, Hiut Denim, Norse Projects, Patagonia, YMC and plenty more. Pavillion currently offer 10% first purchases with code, "FIRSTORDER". Visit their online store for more details.