The day I've had marked on my calender for months has finally arrived, it's Menswear. It all takes place at Somerset House and tickets to these shows were the hottest in town. The room was literally bursting with new talent.
Carolyn Massey
What a start to the day with the much talked about RCA graduate Carolyn Massey, up first. Using military details as inspiration but creating a very different aesthetic, the models were a wash with a unexpected palette of soft pinks, greys and nudes, set on a base of deep reds, khakis, navys and blacks. Styles came in the form of asymmetrical blazers, long wool coats, boxy leather tunics and panelled knitwear, wide sleeved shirts and a grey jump suit was a key peice. Accessories were strong as always in menswear with oversized scarfs, long socks via Tabio and knitwear was fastened with brooches. This is why I love menswear.
JW Anderson
Anderson set a totally different mood, showing garments which were a mixture of punk and traditional countryside, creating a unique twist. Tartan blanket jackets were teamed with wool trousers and studded gold belts, sheepskin jackets went with heavily embellished stonewashed denim and chunky cable knits worn with turned up chinos. A flurry of colours including vivid yellows and reds, along with cream, dusty pink and camel tones. Chokers, backpacks, earrings and heavy hiking boots were all on display. Topped off with bunches of flowers, coming out of every possible compartment. Shall we call it Nu-Rural?
Christopher Shannon
The key to menswear is not to take it too seriously, queue the king of experimental sportswear, Christopher Shannon. Highlights included nylon outerwear worn with matching trousers, layers of sheer tshirts, panelled shirts in a mixture of sheepskin and shiny fabrics, chunky layered hoodies and sweats. All suuped up in ice greys, navy, whites and vibrant pinks and purples. I'm predicting be things for Shannon's sportswear in the future.
James Long
Interesting textured were created by mixing various fabrics including heavy corduroy, faux-fur and mohair on cardigans and outerwear. All outerwear was belted in tight at the waist to create a all round looser silhouette. Cropped leather biker jackets in black and red were again layered with longer coats. Going away from the skinny trousers and experimenting with all-in-one boiler suits was another great success. The only print came in the way of what looked like a bleached print, which created its own tie-dye effect but on a much subtler scale. The James Long show was by far my favourite.
TOPMAN Design
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I didn't manage to cover the other shows that went on within the day, like the MAN show featuring one of my personal favourites, Katie Eary. There was also a handful of presentations including H by Harris, Mr Hare and Lou Dalton, which all looked great and I'm just frustrated that I couldn't attend. Remember to click the images to enlarge.
So what do you guys think of the menswear day and London Fashion Week in general? If you didn't managed to see any of the coverage, what do you think of my top picks?
All images from LFW
Loved Topman Design this season and JW Anderson, though the collection seemed somewhat out of character...
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That hiker chic = how I wish the boys would look on geology field trips! I'd obviously be wandering around barefoot in a floaty white dress, hard hat and rock hammer...
ReplyDeletenice picks above, I actually favoured Topshop Design, which always feels like a very non-fashion-y thing to say, but there is no denying good design, and this season Topshop have consistently delivered.
ReplyDeletevery mainstream (not where I usually head for inspiration, I do prefer smaller lines) but Burberry's outerwear for men was primal and inspiring, I certainly wanted to tackle the furry, military creatures off the catwalk, aha.
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fandare... - yeah the topman design show for me was their best yet. glad other people are thinking that too and they can come out from behind topshop's shadow abit. and yeah burberrys aviator inspired outer wear was excellent and practical!
ReplyDeleteMJ - i wish i could go on geography trips and dress like that too!
Loved James Long's cord trousers the thick navy cord cut in different pannels with patches stuck on it in contrasting lines. Also the printed coats.
ReplyDeleteAlso loved the layering of Christopher Shannon's layering the different mixes of the weights of fabrics. The contrast of the sea through net and the sportswear shorts.
Loving the Carolyn Massey stuff.
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